Blog · Hair Care
DIY Hair Mask for Damaged Hair (Professional Formula)
Commercial hair masks are expensive, and many rely on silicones that coat the hair without repairing it. A professional reparative mask can be made at home from a handful of ingredients, and it will outperform most of what is on the shelf. Here is the full formula, with INCI names, pH and method.
Why this mask works
- Hydrolyzed keratin has an affinity for damaged sites along the shaft and fills the gaps, restoring strength.
- Hydrolyzed wheat protein is smaller and more hygroscopic, so it attracts and holds moisture inside the hair.
- Panthenol (provitamin B5) penetrates the shaft and improves elasticity.
- BTMS-50 is a cationic conditioner that seals the cuticle and gives the mask its detangling slip.
The formula (100 g)
| Ingredient | Function | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| BTMS-50 | Conditioning & emulsifying agent | 4.0 g |
| Cetyl alcohol | Thickener / emollient | 2.0 g |
| Dimethicone | Slip agent / detangler | 2.0 g |
| Sunflower oil | Emollient oil | 3.0 g |
| Ingredient | Function | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Deionized water | Solvent | to 100 g |
| Glycerin | Humectant | 5.0 g |
| Ingredient | Function | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Hydrolyzed keratin | Strengthening protein | 3.0 g |
| Hydrolyzed wheat protein | Moisture-binding protein | 2.0 g |
| Panthenol | Penetrating conditioner | 2.0 g |
| Ingredient | Function | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Fragrance | Fragrance | 0.5 g |
| Citric acid, 10% solution | pH adjuster | q.s. to pH 4.0–4.5 |
| Broad-spectrum preservative | Preservation | 1.0 g |
How to make it
- Weigh and heat phase A and phase B separately to 70–75 °C. Both must reach the same temperature.
- Add phase B to phase A slowly while mixing with a high-shear mixer. Mix 2–3 minutes to form a stable, creamy emulsion.
- Switch to gentle paddle stirring. At 45 °C add the phase C proteins and panthenol.
- Below 35 °C add phase D: fragrance, preservative, then adjust to pH 4.0–4.5 with the citric acid solution.
- Fill into jars. The mask thickens further as it cools completely.
How to use it
Apply to damp hair, concentrating on mid-lengths and ends rather than the scalp. Leave for 5–10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
Use it once or twice a week. More protein is not better — overloading leaves hair stiff and brittle.
Want the full collection of hair care formulas?
This mask is one of nine formulas in The Big Book of Homemade Hair Care, alongside a universal liquid shampoo, four solid shampoo bars, a conditioning balm, a follicle-stimulating scalp spray and a dry hair oil — all with phase tables, INCI names, pH targets and mixing order.
It also teaches the shampoo matrix and active-matter calculation first, so you can adapt any of them.
The Big Book of Homemade Hair Care
Learn the shampoo matrix first: primary and secondary surfactants, cationic conditioning polymers, pH 4.5–5.5, rheology and active-matter maths. Then formulate for oily, dry or thinning hair.
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