The Big Book of Homemade Skin Care

Learn the protocol, then learn what each ingredient does and why it goes in at a particular phase and temperature, before you start changing recipes.

The skincare book is built around understanding. Every formula lists each ingredient's INCI name and function, groups ingredients into phases, and gives target temperatures, a target pH, shelf life and a 'key improvements' note that explains the formulation choices.

Four foundations run through every product: hygiene (sterilized tools, a disinfected workspace), preservation (anything with water needs a broad-spectrum preservative), pH (matching skin's acid mantle, around 4.5–5.5) and patch testing. The first formula, a chamomile foam cleanser, is mixed without heat or emulsifying, which makes it an approachable first project.

Source: The Big Book of Homemade Skin Care — The Non-Negotiable Protocol · Calming Chamomile Foam Cleanser · Open the article

A cream is an oil-in-water emulsion: oil droplets held evenly through a water phase by an emulsifier. Both phases are heated to the same temperature and combined under high shear.

The book's creams use emulsifiers such as Olivem 1000 or Emulsifying Wax NF (Polawax) at 3–5%, with cetearyl alcohol (1.5–2.5%) to thicken and stabilize.

The method from the Barrier Repair Cream: heat the oil phase to 70–72 °C until clear. Heat the water phase to 70–72 °C as well, holding it there about 5 minutes. With both at the same temperature, pour the oil into the water in a thin stream while mixing at medium speed, then mix at high speed for 3–4 minutes. Cool while stirring slowly. Add actives at 38–40 °C and the preservative at 35 °C, adjust pH, keep stirring down to 25–28 °C, pack, and rest 24 hours.

Source: The Big Book of Homemade Skin Care — Barrier Repair Cream · Cellular Renewal Elixir · Open the article

Actives are the ingredients chosen for a specific effect, such as panthenol, peptides or niacinamide. Most are heat-sensitive, so they go into the cooling product at 38–40 °C.

Examples from the book: D-panthenol for barrier repair, allantoin and bisabolol for soothing, niacinamide for sebum regulation, salicylic acid and Azeclair for problem skin, caffeine for puffiness, and peptides such as GHK-Cu, Argireline, Matrixyl and Progeline for aging concerns.

Long exposure to heat can break them down, so they're added to the cooling emulsion, typically at 38–40 °C, before the preservative at about 35 °C. Peptides are stirred in by hand or on the lowest speed so high shear doesn't denature them.

Source: The Big Book of Homemade Skin Care — Barrier Repair Cream · Cellular Renewal Elixir · Copper Peptide Renewal Serum · Open the article

From the book: cleanser, creams and toner 9 months; peptide serum and eye gel 6 months; facial oil 9–12 months; cleansing oil and shower gel 12 months; butters, scrubs and bath salts 6 months unopened, 3 months opened.

These shelf lives assume the book's full protocol: sterilized tools and containers, the named preservative systems in water-based products, and antioxidants in oil-based ones. Airtight, suitable packaging matters too: airless pumps for gels, dark glass for oils.

Source: The Big Book of Homemade Skin Care — Use and storage notes in each formula · Open the article