Natural Skincare

Every ingredient has a job. Learn what it is.

Cleansers, creams, serums, oils, butters and scrubs, built phase by phase. You'll understand what each ingredient does, why it goes in at a particular temperature, and what keeps the product safe.

Explore the skincare book Ask a skincare question

How a formula is built

Every formula in the book groups ingredients into phases, each added at its own moment:

A Water or hydrosol phase
B Oil phase with the emulsifier
C Heat-sensitive actives, added at 38–40 °C
D Preservation, at about 35 °C
E pH adjustment, drop by drop

pH targets from the book

Product	Target pH	Why
Cleansers & shower gel	4.5–5.5	Respects the acid mantle; alkaline cleansers damage the barrier
Barrier Repair Cream	4.8–5.2	Skin-matching; helps the preservative work
Clarifying toner	3.8–4.2	Salicylic acid only exfoliates below 4.5
Copper peptide serum	6.0–6.5	Peptides are sensitive to pH jumps
Firming gel	4.2–5.0	Set by succinic acid

Three kinds of product

Emulsions (the creams) bring oil and water together with an emulsifier, both phases heated to 70–72 °C and combined under high shear. Gels and cleansers are water-based, built at room temperature with gums, polymers or mild surfactants. Anhydrous products (facial oils, butters, scrubs, bath salts) contain no water, so they need no preservative, only antioxidants and completely dry tools.

A sample from the book: Calming Chamomile Foam Cleanser

The book's first formula: a pH-balanced foaming cleanser for sensitive skin, mixed without heat or emulsifying. Yield about 186 g; target pH 4.5–5.5; shelf life 9 months.

Phase	Ingredient	g
A	Chamomile flower water	100.0
A	Deionized water	20.0
A	Vegetable glycerin	3.0
A	Sodium lactate 60%	2.0
A	Panthenol	1.0
B	Cocamidopropyl betaine	30.0
B	Aloe barbadensis leaf extract (10:1)	10.0
B	Coco-glucoside	5.0
C	Hydrolyzed silk	5.0
C	Cranberry extract	3.0
C	Betaine	2.0
C	Caprylyl glycol	1.5
C	Polysorbate 80	1.2
D	Geogard Ultra (or Leucidal Liquid, 3.6 g)	1.8
D	Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil	0.3
pH	Citric acid 10% solution	q.s.

Dissolve Phase A, warming gently to 30–35 °C if needed.
Combine the Phase B and C surfactants, extracts, silk, betaine and caprylyl glycol.
Pour into Phase A slowly while stirring, to avoid foam.
Premix polysorbate 80 with the lavender oil until clear, then add.
Add the preservative and adjust the pH drop by drop.
Bottle in a foaming pump and rest 24 hours.

Before you use it

Work to the hygiene protocol, and patch test on your inner arm for 24–48 hours before first use.

Knowledge articles

Skincare questions, answered

Natural Skincare

Why should facial oil go on damp skin?

On damp skin, the oil forms a micro-emulsion that spreads evenly, absorbs better and doesn't leave a greasy film.