Understand what each ingredient brings to a formula.

Peptide · Skincare

Acetyl tetrapeptide-2 (Progeline)

Reduces the look of wrinkle depth and sagging.

Used at 2%

Colorant · Soap

Activated charcoal

Jet-black color, gentle exfoliation.

Used at 1–1.5 tsp per ~460 g oils

Pigment, not dye — it won't stain skin; gray lather is normal.

Active · Skincare

Allantoin

Healing and soothing; softens keratinized cells.

Used at 0.5%

Add at 40 °C.

Botanical · Skincare

Aloe barbadensis extract (10:1)

Hydrating and soothing.

Used at 5.6%

Carrier oil · Skincare

Apricot kernel oil

Light liquid oil for scrubs.

Used at 8.2%

Carrier oil · Skincare · Soap

Argan kernel oil

Argania spinosa

Rich in vitamin E and squalene; regenerative and antioxidant.

Used at 4–13% (skincare); luxury superfat option in soap

Peptides · Skincare

Argireline / Matrixyl / Eyeseryl

Expression-line, anti-aging and anti-puffiness peptides.

Used at 2–3%

Stir in by hand or on the lowest speed — high shear and heat can denature them.

Diffuser base · Candles

Augeo & MMB

Glycerin-based solvents used 50/50 as a reed-diffuser and car-perfume base.

Used at 70% of the blend

Carrier oil · Skincare · Soap

Avocado oil

Vitamins and oleic acid; nourishing. A favorite post-trace or post-cook superfat.

Used at 8.2% (scrub); 1–8% as soap superfat

Active · Skincare

Azeclair

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate

Fights acne and post-inflammatory marks; mattifies.

Used at 2%

Pre-dissolve in warm water phase.

Wax · Skincare · Candles

Beeswax

Cera alba

Structure and protection in creams; honey-scented candle wax; 1:1 with oil for solid perfume.

Used at 1% (cream); 60 g in the cupcake candle

Essential oil · Skincare · Soap

Bergamot essential oil

Fresh citrus, uplifting, skin-balancing.

Used at 0.1% (bath salt); 5 g (soap)

Phototoxic — use bergapten-free (FCF) in leave-on products and avoid in daytime face care.

Active · Skincare

Beta-glucan

Anti-inflammatory and restorative.

Used at 0.5%

Add at 40 °C.

Humectant · Skincare

Betaine

Osmolyte — protects skin cells against cleansing stress.

Used at 1.1%

Active · Skincare

Bisabolol

Soothing, anti-inflammatory.

Used at 0.3%

Specialty oil · Soap

Black seed oil

Nigella sativa

Antioxidants and thymoquinone; balancing and soothing.

Used at ~4% in base plus ~2% post-trace

Strong aroma. If you raise it, recalculate the lye.

Wick · Candles

Braided cotton wick

10, 24 or 45 strands, matched to the container diameter.

Used at 24-strand for a 250 ml glass; 45-strand for a 13 cm cake

Use cotton only with dried flowers — other wicks risk flaring.

Active · Skincare

Caffeine

Draining and vasoconstricting — for puffiness and body contouring.

Used at 1.3–2%

May sting.

Carrier oil · Skincare

Camellia seed oil

Camellia japonica

Oleic-rich, fast-absorbing and not greasy.

Used at 3–17%

Gel · Candles

Candle gel

Mineral oil + gelling agent: transparent, odorless, remeltable.

Used at Batch weight ≈ water weight × 0.9

Melt at 90–105 °C, never above 110 °C. Stir with a glass rod.

Multifunctional · Skincare

Caprylyl glycol

Moisturiser that also boosts preservatives.

Used at 0.5–0.8%

Gelling polymer · Skincare

Carbomer / Aristoflex AVC

Clear, light gel bases for serums and eye gels.

Used at Serum & eye gel

Some polymers are heat-sensitive — build the gel at room temperature and stir 10–15 min.

Specialty oil · Skincare

Carrot seed oil

Daucus carota

Carotenoids and vitamin A; a golden hue that evens tone.

Used at 1%

Soft oil · Soap

Castor oil

Ricinoleic acid: humectant and lather stabilizer for dense, creamy foam.

Used at 2–5.5%

Above 5–7% the bar turns sticky and soft.

Botanical · Skincare

Centella asiatica extract

Supports collagen synthesis and microcirculation.

Used at 3%

Fatty alcohol · Skincare

Cetearyl alcohol

Thickens and stabilizes. A ‘fatty’ alcohol — not drying.

Used at 1.5–2.5%

Drop to 1.5–2% for a lighter cream.

Hydrosol · Skincare

Chamomile flower water

Soothing, anti-inflammatory, toning base for a gentle cleanser.

Used at 55.6% (foam cleanser)

Spice · Soap

Cinnamon (ground)

Reddish-brown color and exfoliation.

Used at 1–1.5 tsp per layer

Can irritate skin — not for facial bars.

pH adjuster · Skincare

Citric / lactic acid 10% solution

Brings water-based formulas down into the skin's range, drop by drop.

Used at q.s.

Colorant / additive · Soap

Clays (kaolin, rose kaolin, French green, rhassoul)

Slip, mild exfoliation, oil absorption and soft natural color.

Used at 1–2 tsp

Always slurry in oil or water first.

Surfactant · Skincare

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Mild amphoteric surfactant with stable foam.

Used at 16.7–25.7%

Surfactant · Skincare

Coco-glucoside

Non-ionic; softens cleansing and improves tolerance.

Used at 2.8%

Butter · Skincare · Soap

Cocoa butter

Firm, rich base for butters; hardness and creaminess in soap.

Used at 12–40% (body care); 9–17% (soap)

Crystallizes badly if cooled carelessly — seed and whip.

Wax · Candles

Coconut container wax

About 80% coconut oil derivatives + 20% vegetable oils. Melts at 43–45 °C, clings to glass and burns clean.

Used at Base; fragrance 10–12%

Never above 85 °C. Cure 7–10 days.

Wax · Candles

Coconut mold (pillar) wax

Melts at 57–63 °C; harder and smoother, releases from molds and holds its shape while burning.

Used at Cakes and pillars

Don't use it in containers — it causes wet spots.

Oil / hard fat · Skincare · Soap · Candles

Coconut oil (refined)

In soap: lauric and myristic acids give hardness, big fluffy lather and strong cleansing; fast trace, fast cure. In body care: butter and scrub base. In candles: softens wax into a pipeable ‘whipped cream’.

Used at 24–30% in balanced soap bars; 100% in the single-oil bar

Drying at high % unless superfatted. Do not use fractionated (liquid) coconut in soap recipes.

Peptide · Skincare

Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)

Stimulates collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid; regeneration.

Used at 5% ready solution in serum; 0.5% in eye gel

Should be blue — green or brown means oxidized. Don't layer with strong acids (>10%) or retinol.

Active · Skincare

D-Panthenol (provitamin B5)

Barrier repair; anti-inflammatory and hydrating.

Used at 0.5–5% (5% = maximum effective)

May tingle slightly.

Surfactant · Skincare

Decyl glucoside

Mild non-ionic secondary surfactant.

Used at 4%

Solvent · Skincare · Soap

Deionized / distilled water

Pure base with no minerals to interfere with the formula or the lye.

Used at 11–65% in skincare; 26–38% of oil weight in soap

The main contamination risk in skincare — any water-containing product needs a preservative.

Emollient · Skincare

Dicaprylyl ether

Dry, silky finish with zero comedogenicity; dissolves makeup well.

Used at ~40% of a cleansing oil

Chelator · Skincare

Disodium EDTA

Binds metal ions — protects peptides and GHK-Cu from oxidation.

Used at Serums

Emulsifier · Skincare

Emulsifying Wax NF (Polawax)

Standardized, very stable oil-in-water emulsions.

Used at 5%

Preservative · Skincare

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin

Preserves the shower gel.

Used at 0.8%

Fragrance · Candles · Soap

Fragrance oil

Main scenting agent in candles; strong, stable scent in soap.

Used at 10–12% of wax; ~2% of soap batch

In soap use only CP-safe oils — others can seize or rice. Don't mix fragrance and essential oils in one soap.

Essential oil · Skincare

Frankincense essential oil

Regenerative and soothing.

Used at 0.13% (facial oil)

Additive · Soap

Fresh orange juice

Natural sugars for lather.

Used at 15 g, added to the oils

Acidic: it uses up some lye. Avoid store-bought juice.

Preservative · Skincare

Geogard 221

For creams and serums.

Used at 1%

Preservative · Skincare

Geogard ECT

Benzoic acid, sorbic acid, glycerin

Stable at acidic pH.

Used at 0.5–1%

Add at ~35 °C.

Preservative · Skincare

Geogard Ultra

Broad-spectrum preservative recommended for the cleanser and creams.

Used at 1%

Liquid · Soap

Goat milk

A very mild, creamy bar with luxurious lather.

Used at 43 g of 108 g liquid (Goat Milk & Honey)

Freeze it first. Sugars and proteins scorch — soap cool and skip the gel.

Carrier oil · Skincare · Soap

Grape seed oil

Light, fast-absorbing and linoleic-rich.

Used at 6.3–33% (skincare); ~5% in soap, 2% post-trace

Oxidizes easily — protect with vitamin E.

CO₂ extract · Skincare

Green coffee CO₂ extract

Antioxidant and firming.

Used at 0.16–2%

Additive · Soap

Honey

Humectant; boosts lather.

Used at ~2% of oils

Heats and accelerates trace — add below 38 °C; in hot process, after the cook.

Protein · Skincare

Hydrolyzed marine collagen

Hydration and elasticity.

Used at 2%

Heat-sensitive: cooling phase only.

Hydrosol · Skincare

Immortelle (Helichrysum) hydrosol

Base of the body contouring gel.

Used at 43% (firming gel)

Process aid · Soap · Skincare

Isopropyl alcohol 91–99%

Sprayed on fresh soap to prevent soda ash; 70% IPA sanitizes tools and gloves.

Used at Spray

Liquid wax · Skincare · Soap · Candles

Jojoba seed oil

Simmondsia chinensis

Close to skin sebum; non-comedogenic; stabilizes blends. Base for massage candles and oil perfumes; a stable carrier for macerates.

Used at 13% (facial oil); 5 g in the massage candle

Natural gum · Skincare

Konjac mannan

Gel former that keeps thickening as it rests.

Used at 0.3%

Pre-disperse in glycerin.

Refatting agent · Skincare

Lamesoft

Glyceryl oleate & coco-glucoside

Counteracts the drying effect of surfactants.

Used at 2%

Occlusive · Skincare · Candles

Lanolin

Powerful occlusive and emollient; forms water-in-oil emulsions and resembles human sebum.

Used at 1% (barrier cream)

Wool-wax allergy risk; not for use undiluted. A lanolin-free variant is given in the book.

Essential oil · Skincare · Soap

Lavender essential oil

Floral-herbaceous; calming, soothing to irritation.

Used at 0.17% (cleanser); ~2% (soap)

Preservative · Skincare

Leucidal Liquid

‘Natural’ preservative option.

Used at 2%

Carrier oil · Soap

Macadamia oil

Skin-softening; a luxury superfat substitute.

Used at ~6%

Butter · Skincare · Soap

Mango butter

High in oleic acid; spreadable, whips easily; hardness and creaminess in soap.

Used at 4–31% (body care); 6.5–12% (soap)

Carrier oil · Skincare

Marula seed oil

Sclerocarya birrea

Light, antioxidant-rich and soothing.

Used at 16.7% (facial oil)

Grape seed or apricot kernel can substitute, but are less stable.

Decorative base · Soap

Melt-and-pour base

Stable embeds and inlays inside cold-process bars.

Used at 10–50 g

Color with mica or oil-dispersible pigment, not water-based color.

Hydrosol · Skincare

Neroli hydrosol

Tones, refreshes and balances; supports cell renewal.

Used at 10% (renewal cream)

Active · Skincare

Niacinamide

Long-term sebum regulation and smoother texture.

Used at 2%

Colorant · Candles

Oil-soluble candle dye (‘F’)

Transparent, bright color that doesn't affect the burn.

Used at 3–4 drops light, 5–7 drops strong

Too much causes smoke or even ignition. Color sets one shade lighter.

Soft oil · Soap

Olive oil (extra virgin)

Oleic-rich: mildness, conditioning and a stable, creamy lather. Suits sensitive and baby skin.

Used at 37–48% in blends; 72% Marseille; 100% Castile

Slow trace; young high-olive soap is soft and slimy and needs a long cure (Castile 6–12 months).

Emulsifier · Skincare

Olivem 1000

Cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate

Natural, olive-derived oil-in-water emulsifier.

Used at 3%

Melt with the oil phase at 65–72 °C.

Essential oil · Soap · Candles

Patchouli essential oil

Earthy base note and fixative; anchors fleeting top notes.

Used at Soap & perfume blends

Essential oil · Skincare · Soap

Peppermint essential oil

Cooling, invigorating.

Used at 0.3% (salt scrub)

Sensitizing at high doses.

Hydrosol · Skincare

Peppermint hydrosol

Refreshing, cooling and mildly antiseptic.

Used at 30% (toner)

Emulsifier · Skincare

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate

Makes clear cleansing oils that turn milky in cold water — no heat needed.

Used at Cleansing oils

Solubilizer · Skincare

Polysorbate 20

Disperses essential oils in bath water.

Used at 0.1% (bath salt)

Solubilizer · Skincare

Polysorbate 80

Disperses essential oils in water and makes scrubs rinse off as milk instead of a greasy film.

Used at 0.7% (cleanser); 4–5% (scrubs)

Humectant / solvent · Skincare

Propylene glycol

Dissolves panthenol and actives; improves penetration.

Used at 3–5%

CO₂ extract · Skincare

Red pepper (Capsicum) CO₂ extract

Warming; boosts circulation in scrubs.

Used at 0.04%

Potent. Wear gloves; keep away from eyes, mucous membranes and broken skin.

Hydrosol · Skincare · Soap

Rose (Rosa damascena) hydrosol

Soothes, balances and softens irritation from acids. In soap it carries water-soluble botanical compounds.

Used at 25% (toner); 50 g of the liquid in the Fresh-Cut Rose bar

In soap, add it to the oils — the heat and pH of lye water would destroy its compounds.

Antioxidant · Skincare · Soap

Rosemary CO₂ / oleoresin

Slows rancidity in oils, butters and soap (helps prevent ‘dreaded orange spots’).

Used at 1.67% (facial oil)

BHA · Skincare

Salicylic acid

Clears pores; keratolytic and anti-inflammatory.

Used at 0.5%

Only exfoliates below pH 4.5. Wear SPF 30+ daily. Gluconolactone (PHA) is a gentler alternative.

Butter · Skincare · Soap · Candles

Shea butter

Vitamins and fatty acids for barrier repair; hardness and creamy lather in soap; nourishing in massage candles.

Used at 7–69% (body care); 7–17% (soap)

Can turn grainy — seed and whip. In soap, work warmer (43–46 °C) to avoid false trace.

Thickener · Skincare · Soap

Sodium chloride (fine salt)

Raises the viscosity of surfactant gels; hardens salt soap bars.

Used at 0.5–2 g q.s. in gels; 20–30% in salt bars

Too much salt thins a surfactant gel again.

Humectant · Skincare

Sodium hyaluronate

Hydration and a plumping effect in serums and eye gels.

Used at Serum & eye gel

Sprinkle in slowly and let it hydrate 15–30 min.

Alkali · Soap

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH, lye)

Turns oils into soap — ‘there is no soap without lye’. Potassium hydroxide (KOH) is used for liquid soap.

Used at Calculated from each oil's SAP value

Always lye into cold liquid, never the reverse. Weigh to 0.1 g and never change the calculated amount without recalculating the whole recipe.

Humectant / NMF · Skincare · Soap

Sodium lactate 60%

Deep hydration and prebiotic support in skincare; in soap it hardens the bar and eases unmolding.

Used at 1.1–1.5% (skincare); 1–2 tsp per 500 g oils (soap)

Humectant · Skincare

Sodium PCA

Prodew 600

Skin-feel humectant in the shower gel.

Used at 1.5%

Wax · Candles

Soy wax

Fine white flakes of hydrogenated soybean oil; dense and creamy.

Used at Choose container or mold grade

Average melting point 69–72 °C.

Colorant · Soap · Skincare

Spirulina

Green that shifts to olive, sage or teal; doesn't bleed.

Used at 1–1.5 tsp (soap); 0.05–0.1 g tint (cleanser)

Light-sensitive — cure in the dark.

Emollient · Skincare

Squalane (olive)

Biocompatible, light and non-comedogenic; restores the barrier and can partly replace lanolin.

Used at 2–20%

Acid · Skincare

Succinic (amber) acid

Gentle exfoliation; sets the pH of the firming gel.

Used at 1.2%

Halve it for sensitive skin.

Carrier oil · Skincare · Soap

Sweet almond oil

Oleic-rich; nourishes, softens and soothes; silky feel in soap.

Used at 7.8–12% (skincare); ~5.5% (soap)

Unsaturated — not suitable for a high superfat (goes rancid).

Essential oil · Skincare · Soap · Candles

Sweet orange essential oil

Bright, uplifting citrus.

Used at 0.6–0.7% (body); 10 g (soap)

Highly volatile; citrus oils can accelerate trace.

Essential oil · Soap

Tea tree essential oil

Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory; for oily and blemish-prone skin.

Used at Soap blends

Antioxidant · Skincare · Soap · Candles

Tocopherol (vitamin E)

Protects oils from rancidity.

Used at 0.3–3.3%

Additive · Soap

Vanilla stabilizer

Stops vanillin in fragrance oils turning the soap brown.

Used at 1:1 with the fragrance oil

Humectant · Skincare

Vegetable glycerin

Prevents tightness and gives long-lasting comfort.

Used at 1.7–3%

Hydrosol · Skincare

Witch hazel hydrosol

Natural astringent: minimizes the look of pores and controls oil.

Used at 40% (toner)

Natural gum · Skincare

Xanthan gum

Gel stabilizer.

Used at 0.2%

Pre-disperse in glycerin to avoid lumps.